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A Guatemalan restaurant with high pink walls and tables covered in flowery plastic, Palacio Latino is a gem hiding in plain sight. Mostly open during the day, the restaurant serves ho-hum Mexican and Salvadoran food and vibrant Guatemalan classics like enchiladas mixtas (tostadas with pork, pickled beets, and cabbage) and chicken pepian (pumpkin-seed stew). Signs on the wall list a dozen varieties of tamales, snacks, and sandwiches for takeout, but the restaurant's sopa de gallina is a sit-down meal. The cooks braise a hen long enough to grow tender, then broil and serve the meat on the side, turning the broth into a rich soup and savory baked rice.
By rights, San Francisco should be deep into soup season, when our space heaters strain to combat the cold leaching through the windows of our Edwardian apartments, and dampness clings to sweaters and bus seats like bad juju. Through January and... More »
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