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What Denver power brokers, money-drenched tourists and suited tots forced by their parents to adopt the Emily Post regimen would do without this bastion of elegance in the Brown Palace is anyone's guess. The Palace Arms dances to Old World sensibilities and is one of the last high-end standbys in the city, where pinstripes and ties are the norm, and hushed conversations -- occasionally interrupted by clinking glasses marking a celebration -- are still a sign of courtesy. The food, which has become more innovative in recent years, is rendered flawlessly by a fastidious kitchen that turns out everything from venison carpaccio and Hudson Valley foie gras torchon to Colorado-raised bison with truffles and lamb loin with mint yogurt and lemon-black pepper jus. Augmented by a superb wine list, a dinner here is an expensive night out, but worth the splurge at least once in your lifetime.
Three hours south of Denver, a husband-and-wife team of ranchers are working hard to help reintroduce Colorado lamb to the meat-devouring public. As detailed in this week's cover story, "Counting Shee... More »
After lamenting the lack of good service at many Denver restaurants, Laura Shunk served up five examples of restaurants that do service right, everything from Frasca Food and Wine to Frijoles Colorado... More »
It's that time of year -- the time when "fill-in-the-blank-for-the-cure" events start filling up your calendar. Tonight's Rose for a Cure at the Palace Arms, the elegant restaurant in the Brown Palace... More »
Thanawat Bates Palace Arms at the Brown Palace 321 17th Street 303-297-3111 www.brownpalace.com/dining This is part two of my interview with Thanawat Bates, exec chef of the Palace Arms at the Brown... More »
Thanawat Bates Palace Arms at the Brown Palace 321 17th Street 303-297-3111 www.brownpalace.com/dining This is part one of my interview with Thanawat Bates, exec chef of the Palace Arms at the Brow... More »
Expensive, but worth it for that memorable dinner
A Penfolds shiraz from 2000. La Tache Burgundy, 1999. A Château Ausone Bordeaux, 1995, and a '98 Cheval Blanc. Need we go on? Okay, how about a bottle of 1990 Petrus? An '89 LaTour? Bottles of Lafite-Rothschild from (almost) every important year dating back to 1978, a cellar full of Mouton-Rothschild. Then there's the Haut-Brion Bordeaux, the '28 Château Margaux? Save your pennies, oenophiles, and make your reservations. The Palace Arms is justly legendary, and its wine list full... More »
To begin, a few ounces of the Palace Arms' diminishing stock of real, pre-embargo caviar, which will run you anywhere from $500 to $1,000. Then order a shot -- but sip it! -- of very well-aged 1870s cognac ($575). After that the prices become somewhat more terrestrial for a beautiful bowl of perfect consomme, a classic loup de mer or the loin of bison Rossini topped with slips of seared foie gras and settled in a tarn of amazing Madeira reduction. For dessert, there's bananas Foster from the c... More »
Unless you order very, very carefully, dinner at the Palace Arms may cost you the price of a decent used car -- but at least the macaroons brought with the bill are free. They also happen to be among the most delicious little cookies we've ever tasted, with a delicate texture and hints of honey, almond and sugar. More »
The regular wine list offered to diners at the Palace Arms is as dense and heavy as a Leon Uris novel, containing both the house's most easily moved everyday bottles and a selection of the treasures kept buried in the basement. The full list is more like the Bible, written in large print on heavy-bond paper. For serious oenophiles only, it's a daunting tome that contains within its pages the very best of the vintner's craft and hints of the formidable cellar below filled with... More »
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