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What may be the city's best and most ambitious Cantonese restaurant occupies a sprawling, second-floor space. Morning and lunchtime dim sum is among the top five in the city, but go instead for dinner, when a humongous menu roams the landscape for dishes not on the core South Chinese menu. There are Beijing-style stews of lamb and bean curd skin, savory broths from Shandong loaded with greens, a braised pork belly delight from Hakka, and even a few Malaysian flourishes. But you can't go wrong with whole fish, especially the pan-fried flounder with a crunchy rice-starch coating.
Wrapped in a red sheath dress that showed off her slim figure, the bride's mother took her place at the microphone under the ornate coffered ceiling, while guests at three dozen tables looked on expectantly. The DJ launched a drum-and-bass track,... More »
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