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The Thai Town restaurant Pa-Ord Noodle is a shinier-than-usual mini-mall dive with a reputation for great boat-noodle soup. Submerged in a deep, slightly tart broth tinted chocolate-brown with its thickener of ground pork blood, the noodles in question are garnished with scallions and skinny strips of tripe and slivers of beef -- and also with slablets of liver if your tastes run that way. Additionally, you’ll find crunchy bits of pork rind, crumbled right out of the bag into the soup. It’s a nourishing dish, complex and filling, so that a small, $3.50 bowl will almost certainly be enough. Proprietor Lawan Bhanduram — the place takes its name from her Thai nickname, Ord — rarely finds herself with an empty seat.
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You come to Pa-Ord for the extra-murky boat noodles, also known as kuay tiew rua, one of Thailand's most beloved street foods. Sure, the bowl is filled with scraps of offal you might not be able to identify: perforated squares of tripe, a slice... More »
Some call it East Hollywood, but many more know it as Thai Town, a glowing, neon causeway of great late-night restaurants, karaoke bars and slingers of Chang beer towers. It's an area of town that not... More »
As you may have noticed, this year's Best Of issue dropped on your doorstep, metaphorically if not actually, yesterday. There are hundreds (yes, hundreds) of listings, of spas and hikes and cocktails... More »
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As much as we love the version at Sapp Coffee Shop, the boat noodles at Pa-Ord Noodle are graduate-level stuff -- the Bitches Brew of Bangkok cuisine. You're headed to a specialist of extra-murky boat noodles, or kuay tiew rua, one of Thailand's most beloved street foods. The broth is dark, wildly intense and funky as a Parliament track. Thickened with pork blood and perfumed with star anise. Unrelentingly spicy, with zaps of sweet and sour nipping the edges of your tongue. The bowl is... More »
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