Come fall and winter, there is no better place to warm yourself than in an Irish pub. Tucked away in a discreet alley near the waterfront, the Owl N Thistle is a cozy nook full of unpretentious folks. Its easy to feel at home at the Owl: the walls are made of exposed brick; the shelves are lined with old books; and, of course, there is plenty of beer. During happy hour, the biggest draw is the pubs beloved fish and chips ($3.50), two juicy pieces of cod balanced atop a heap of hand-cut fries. But the menu boasts $3 beers and $3.25 wells, too. Be warned: The food is hearty, but the drinks are stiff, making it easy to lose track of time. Just remember to grab your coat when you finally decide to stumble homeit's cold out there. ERIKA HOBART