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Nancy Silverton is the most dogged of chefs, dedicated to perfecting the most elemental of foods through sheer strength of will. Almost anybody who has tasted what she has wrought in the media of bread, pastry, cheese or pizza can attest to the power of her obsessions. And at the Osteria, a sleek, bustling restaurant in the same building as her Pizzeria Mozza, the intensity of the restaurant's cuisine radiates from the mozzarella bar at its heart, a loose take on the mozzarella-intensive wine bar Obika near the Pantheon in central Rome, and a testament to the vitality to be drawn from a single ingredient whose freshness and provenance are so crucial - imagine a great sushi chef who has chosen to work with mozzarella instead of fish. Really, you have never tasted such cheese. But a fine restaurant is of course more than just cheese, and Osteria Mozza also synthesizes Silverton's roots in the area of Umbria where she has her summer home, and the current Emilia-Romagna fixations of Matt Molina, a young San Gabriel native who is her chef, as well as the polish from partners Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali and wine czar David Rosoff. The the braised guinea fowl and the spoon-tender pork roast inspired by rural Umbrian trattorias share menu space with meat-sauced fresh garganelli and tortellini en brodo from the homeliest kitchens in Bologna; the sashimi-like constructions of fresh mozzarella co-exist with the simplest possible rendition of linguine cacio e pepe, which resonates with the heat and fragrance of freshly ground pepper. (The standard disclaimer applies: Nancy is a family friend and she co-wrote a book with my wife. You are free to discount any of my opinions, as foolish as you would be to do so.) Osteria Mozza is pretty extraordinary now, but what is even more exciting is the restaurant that I suspect it will evolve into over the next several years.
The Los Angeles Times has released Jonathan Gold's 101 Best Restaurants today (subscription required). It's the first time the Times critic (and former LA Weekly critic) has put out a dining guide lis... More »
If you adore restaurants, if you're addicted to the sounds, the energy and the spectacle of dining out, there's hardly anyplace in L.A. that's more of a thrill than Osteria Mozza. When you step in through the huge, dark doors into the noise and... More »
Is there a restaurant in this fine city that does not currently have burrata on the menu? The seafood restaurants have it. The Peruvian restaurants have it. If it once topped pizzas and adorned simple Italian salads, it now tussles with sea urchin and gives soothing counsel to chili peppers. We most likely have Nancy Silverton to thank for this, given that burrata is one variance of the cheese she named her restaurant after, and as such it's only fitting that the best burrata dish in town is... More »
Yummie I like the restaurant, NOT the pizza joint. Pizza place has good apps. The restaurant is GREAT all around. I recently figured out the best way to order here - pick a bunch of different pasta dishes and split the plates with whoever you are there with. The restaurant has no problem doing that. The more people you go with the more pastas you get to try. It's the way to fly, trust me. It's my people. Oh, yeah and if you love Burrata, they many great innovative ways to serve. Even something called Burraccotta. Talk about a cheese after my own heart... (I mean that in more than one way). Pricey, but probably best Italian rest in all of LA. Mario Batali is the paison.
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