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CLOSED Fire in 2008, now open in new location in North Beach. The steakhouse genre's classic components -- open kitchen, red meat, yeasty sourdough, and a hint of Italy -- are alive and thriving at this darkly handsome six-decades-old-and-counting landmark. Sit at the counter and watch the flames leap as the unflappable range chefs grill house-butchered steaks, burgers, and chops and cook up an exemplary Joe's Special. The pastas and vegetables are on the overcooked side, but the ice-cold martinis make up for them.
The classic San Francisco-style hamburger is served at this Tenderloin institution, where sourdough bread enters the equation. It's an elemental, even primal work of art: just coarsely ground chuck, bread, and a few shards of onion -- nothing more. Drop by after the kitchen fires up the mesquite grill at 5 p.m. so you'll be assured of a properly smoke-infused experience. Sit at the counter and watch the flames leap and the skillets sizzle and the counterman kneading some chopped onion... More »
Like Caesar salad and chicken à la Marengo, Joe's Special was apocryphally invented when a beleaguered chef threw together whatever was left in his larder and served it to his hungry clientele. Another version has it that some Prohibition-era jazzmen stormed New Joe's on Columbus and demanded a high-protein snack after a full night of jamming. In any case, this simple, hearty dish has become as synonymous with the whole Joe's hypothesis as grilled steaks, open kitchens, and Italian... More »
A throwback to San Francisco of the '50s -- down to the aloof, jacket-clad male waiters -- Original Joe's maintains its tradition of no-frills Italian-American cooking smack in the middle of the Tenderloin's squalor and destitution. The décor is closer to that of an upscale coffee shop than a homey restaurant, which suits the long-standing clientele of cops, lawyers, pensioners, and theatergoers. Whether you sit at the counter to watch the pros deftly work the grill or stake out an... More »
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