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On's Thai Kitchen offers authentic, home-style cooking that reaches to the far corners of this favorite southeast Asian cuisine. Plump spring rolls, sweet pad Thai, and complex curries are all excellent, but the best rewards are found in dishes less often found at local restaurants. The Nam Thok (and its Kor Moo Yang variant) is a bolder version of Lao larb, a spicy meat salad tamed by lettuces and fresh herbs; Pad-Khana-Mu-Kroup blends deep-fried pork belly with Chinese broccoli; Pad-Phong-Ga-Lee sautees whole Dungeness crab with yellow curry, egg, and cilantro. The ambiance isn't much, but with cooking this good, it doesn't really matter.
A farang doesn't have to know much about the authenticity of Thai food to suspect that the paper fans decorating the walls at On's Thai Kitchen, the fake orchids on the tables, and a Muzak version of John Mayer's "Your Body Is a Wonderland" on... More »
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