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Though the interior is done in chain-restaurant monotony, the food here-driven by chef Brian Olenjack (Chisholm Club, Reata, Metro Grill, etc.)-is a cut above most any Americana you can think of. Southern and Southwestern grace notes make antelope ribs, striped bass, crab cakes-even a simple bowl of greens-must tastes. And how often can you say that?
House salads ain't rocket science, yet they're so often afterthoughts—a loose bit of greens and garden things to fill a menu slot with no sense of the house in them. Chef Brian Olenjack takes the house part of the name seriously, making sure a good dose of personality goes into every bowl. It's a simple salad in a curvaceous metal bowl, a nest of greens batted down in tomato vinaigrette, slices of grape tomato and fragments of candied pecans. Elements strike a balanced pose and pique with such uncommon precision, it behaves like an aperitif, the starter equivalent of Manzanilla sherry. And that goes down good.
You can see the curving steel beams rise like a bump in the distance, cranes hovering over them like mantises, the spine arching out of a wave. Olenjack's Grille rests in the thick of it, or what is likely to be the thick, standing ready to... More »
House salads ain't rocket science, yet they're so often afterthoughts--a loose bit of greens and garden things to fill a menu slot with no sense of the house in them. Chef Brian Olenjack takes the house part of the name seriously, making sure a good dose of personality goes into every bowl. It's a simple salad in a curvaceous metal bowl, a nest of greens batted down in tomato vinaigrette, slices of grape tomato and fragments of candied pecans. Elements strike a balanced pose and pique... More »
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