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This Bosnian tavern serves no alcohol, but you can admire the red leather plushness of the ancient barroom - over which arches a 3-D recreation of the namesake bridge (Stari Most means "Old Bridge"), which was destroyed more than a decade ago in the Bosnian conflict. The fare is simple and usually good, including the hubcap-size burger called pljeskavica, which begs to be dressed with the accompanying ajvar (pimento paste), kimek (crème fraîche), and chopped white onions. The desserts at Stari Most are also memorable, but skip the bureks, which are sometimes a bit limp.
The best Bosnian dish this year was the pljeskavica at Stari Most. Composed of lamb and beef ground with onions, the outsize patty is served with the traditional condiments of kimek (clabbered milk) and ajvar (pimento puree).
Something a Serbian-American friend once told me stuck in my head. "In Astoria, all the former Yugoslavians live side by side. Whatever part they played in old conflicts is left behind in the old country. They all speak the same language and eat... More »
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