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The ambitious menu at OK Ryan Restaurant encompasses Yunnan, Burmese, Thai, Cantonese, and Malaysian, most of it piquant and well prepared. An edible purple orchid decorates Yunnan pork salad-big slices of rubbery meat dotted with pickled garlic and hot chiles; the Burmese tea-leaf salad is well executed but not as inspiring. The most startling concoction goes by the unassuming name of oat shrimp. From Malaysia via Hong Kong, it features jumbo prawns in a mountain of toasted oats. After the hulking specimens are dispatched, you can wrap the oats in lettuce and eat them like a crumbled cookie.
I was tacking into a brisk headwind on College Point Boulevardthe eastern edge of the muddy garage-and-manufacturing district F. Scott Fitzgerald dubbed the Valley of Ashes in The Great Gatsbywhen a red awning caught my eye. The name of the... More »
I guess if you look at the map, Thailand, Yunnan, and Burma don't seem that far apart, and the tart salads common to these cuisines kick ass at Thai Food House, but Malaysian and Cantonese, as well? Yet all these diverse cooking styles are executed with aplomb. Check out the Burmese baby-ginger salad, Yunnan yellow bean curd, or the "oat shrimp," which hails from Malaysia but shows Hong Kong influences. The oats act as a sort of deconstructed cookie, and you can treat them as a dessert after... More »
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