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The best thing about Ocho is that its kitchen serves until 2 a.m. The second-best thing is everything else. Coming through the door here on any good night is like walking straight into a wall of noise. The music is loud, the people are loud, the plates and silver are loud. There is nothing soft, nothing gentle, nothing necessarily easy about Ocho. Everything is just sound and fury in a tiny, dark space, candlelit and rich with shadows-a situation that's ideal when you're looking for somewhere to throw yourself heart and soul into the full experience of a meal. The tapas here, though not terribly autentico, are excellent nonetheless, a uniquely American vision of dining Spanish-style. From albondigas and olives to little white anchovies, plates of patatas bravas stuck with a dozen toothpicks to beautifully composed plates of sherried mushrooms and arugula, there's almost no way to go wrong with this menu. And if you do, who cares? The board here tops out around eight bucks, so even if you eat all you can hold and wash it down with a gallon of Estrella Spanish lager, you're still going to walk out of here only a couple of $20s lighter.
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