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Within a limited range of endeavor, Obika rules. It purveys a trio of buffalo mozzarellas, two of them from Paestum, Italy, the third from a New England farm. These cheeses are relentlessly rolled, matched, saladed, and otherwise played out in a menu that's great for snacking, not so great for mealing. Still, as a showcase for a world-renowned product, the place is not bad, so perch on a bar stool at the communal table and join the other Atkins addicts. The original in Rome is very proud of its wine list, but, alas, there's no wine at this branch, located in the soaring atrium of the IBM building. Oddly, pastries and panini are offered for carryout only in the common areas of the atrium outside the restaurant.
Three white blobs glow on an elongated plate, cushioned by some attractive but useless baby-spinach leaves and attended by a few cherry tomatoes parsimoniously cut into halves. The "degustazione di tre mozzarelle di bufala" ("tasting of three... More »
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