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This old-fashioned Portuguese restaurant comes as a surprise in Jamaica, Queens, anchoring a small Iberian neighborhood not far from JFK airport. Go into the barroom, rather than the starchy, formal restaurant, and find a chalkboard of budget priced daily specials. Seasonal seafood is a high point, often incorporated into caldeiras, which are long-simmered stews, often containing several types of fish and crustaceans. Grab anything that contains pork and clams simultaneously, a specialty of the southern Alentejo region. Fish and steaks, simply prepared, are another specialty, and don't miss the bar menu, which offers scrumptious salt-cod fritters.
In summer, you want to sit in a place with bright colors and big open windows, or out on a terrace in the sun with a white-wine spritzer and a big salad or sandwich. But youll never make it through a harsh winter on a diet like that. Nor do you... More »
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema enjoys the "foodstuff that fueled Portuguese expansionism in the 16th century": bacalhau at O Lavrador; while Sarah DiGregorio samples the "mother of all baked ... More »
One is well advised to enter O Lavrador by the barroom at the left, through a rustic door with the word BAR spelled out in bullet holes, and a gnarled limb as a door pull. This week, Counter Culture ... More »
A few blocks south of downtown Jamaica, Queens, lies a miniature Portuguese neighborhood that has managed to remain intact for decades. There's a soccer club, a churrasqueira, and a couple of taverns, set amid truck depots, warehouses, and frame... More »
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