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Northern Chinese Restaurant specializes in the food of Shenyang - basic, hearty stuff, probably better suited to long, hard winters than to California summers: The casserole of pickled sour cabbage is a neat Chinese version of Strasbourg-style choucroute, a full quart of soupy sauerkraut garnished with slabs of stewed duck or fat house-cured pork belly. It also serves that other Shenyang specialty, fake dog meat, which is actually a low heap of cold, shredded pork, gritty with ground cumin and strongly scented with vinegar and garlic.
Photo by Anne Fishbein Often, the art of cookery is to present a great ingredient at its best, like a late-summer peach whose peachiness is amplified, made even more delicious in a juicy, runny tart baked by Euro Pane’s Sumi Chang. And sometimes... More »
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