Description
Having previously run Danny Meyer's haute Indian restaurant Tabla for 12 years, Floyd Cardoz helms the kitchen. You'll find the occasional exotic spice used here, too, but while that Madison Avenue eatery surprised and delighted with every bite, this one plays it safe and occasionally bores. Certain dishes blew us away. Cornmeal-battered cod throats—a heart-shaped cut of the fish rarely seen in New York—roost over a meunière sauce that's miles better than the rustic lemon-parsley-brown-butter treatment common in French bistros. Grilled sardines are also top-notch, and a lightly spiced soup illustrates the underappreciated affinity of crab and pumpkin.
