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Chef Noboru Kidera works a kind of alchemy at his University City restaurant. The deft movements of his hands as he works at the bar, chatting with diners, demonstrate just how complex the making of sushi is. But what you notice about a piece of Kidera's nigiri sushi is its utter simplicity: the small mound of rice, a brush of wasabi, and then the fish, cut to the perfect thickness and impeccably fresh. The standard sushi selection is excellent - salmon, topped with a sliver of bracing raw onion, and mackerel especially so - but treat yourself to luscious toro or something unusual, like "The Traveler." Nobu's offers several crowd-pleasing rolls, as well as classic Japanese tempura, yakitori and noodle dishes.
St. Louis' neighborhoods are gems in their own right: full of history, great people and, as far as Gut Check is concerned, fantastic food. Each week we'll take you into a specific neighborhood and poi... More »
Selecting Riverfront Times' Best of St. Louis 2011 was no picnic. Choosing the winner meant several worthy candidates would go unmentioned -- until now. In this Gut Check series, we are chewing our wa... More »
Japanese cuisine is remarkably similar to Japanese cinema. Each art form is defined by efficiency of movement (by both the sushi chef and the camera), attention to detail that borders on neurotic and ... More »
Salmon certainly isn't the most exotic seafood at Nobu's Japanese Restaurant. It probably isn't the tastiest, either. But after numerous visits to one of the area's best sushi restaurants, it remains ... More »
If you screw up and try to go to In Soo on a Tuesday, your only recourse is to incline the SUV in a westernly direction and hie thee a block thither to Nobu's. This is not to say that you are not encouraged to hie to Nobu's generally; It should... More »
This week's meeting of the League Against Sushi-Expanding Rolls will now come to order. Let the record show that for the 212th consecutive week, LASER is meeting at Nobu's in University City. While we await our nigiri sushi -- I ordered twice as much salmon as usual because it's so good, especially with that little crescent-moon of onion atop it -- a reminder that at the last meeting we passed, by unanimous vote, Resolution No. 104: "The League Against Sushi-Expanding Rolls... More »
Sushi has become such a fixture on the American dining scene that stepping into Nobu's feels like traveling in a time machine -- and not just because it's located in an old IHOP. (The unexpected setting does help, though.) The location, the serene atmosphere and the preternatural elegance with which Noboru Kidera arranges a piece of nigiri sushi: together, they evoke a time when sushi wasn't one more lunch-hour option or fast-casual trend but an actual mystery. Is this dinner? Or is it... More »
Purists and dilettantes cringe when we sing odes to the BLT roll at Nobu's. They don't know what they're missing. Revered by many as the city's premier temple of sushi, Nobu's has previously pioneered such breakthroughs as slicing the nigiri sushi in half. That one was good, but it's got nothing on the BLT roll. This extraordinary nosh is just what you think: BLT stuff wrapped in vinegared rice and seaweed. We're not sure why, but the unexpected conviviality of these ingredients, combined... More »
In the '80s, it was cars; in the '90s, sushi. Yes, we're talking about Japanese imports. Look around St. Louis, or any American city, and you will find Japanese cars (some made in America) and Japanese restaurants everywhere. But it wasn't always like that. We remember the '80s, when there was this little hole-in-the-wall place on Delmar in University City (though not in the Loop) where a Japanese chef worked his magic in a cramped space behind a counter and a few tables were scattered in... More »
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