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If you've ever eaten at any Nobu location, little at Malibu will come as a surprise. The old standards are all there: black cod with miso, the fish rich and sweet, lacquered with salty, mellow miso. It's as close as fish comes to candy — an astoundingly perfect few bites of food. There are the cold raw fish dishes: the ceviche, Nobu-style; the new-style sashimi; the yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno — all show off Nobu's deft hand with fish, spice and acid. You can almost taste chef Nobu Matsuhisa's "aha" moment, when, as a very young chef working in Peru, he made the connection between the Peruvian use of lime juice and raw fish and the possibilities of treating the Japanese citrus yuzu similarly.
Is there a chef more influential to Los Angeles cuisine than Nobu Matsuhisa? Is there an L.A. chef more influential to American cuisine? An argument can certainly be made for Wolfgang Puck. But apart from those two, who could claim that the... More »
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