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The menu at this Indian grocer is still buffet, still at the back of the store, but the staff at Nina's seems to have corrected the errors of its previous location. Chicken tikka masala is no longer a syrupy mush, but rather strong in flavor, robust and spicy. Garlic naan isn't edible paper, but instead toasted, stretchy yet flavorful. Biryani, saag paneer, tandoori chicken-all the refugees of the Indian buffet exist here. They're better than at other places but mitigated for the Commonwealth palate. Most impressive are the items on the shelves from various members of the British empire-South Africa, Pakistan, even Sri Lanka.
A couple of weeks ago, I met a nice South African lady; the conversation, naturally, turned to food. She was impressed I knew about African Hut, appreciated Edwin’s long-ago review of Boneheads, felt the quality of Mozambique had fallen inversely... More »
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