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Partners Nick Coniglio and John Kent Thurston have fashioned their Nuevo California-by-way-of-Palm-Beach menu so that familiar dishes, steaks, and seafood have a kind of ironic playfulness. Either that or they're just flat-out delicious. Nick & Jonnie's crispy calamari come with deep-fried pickles and a side of "comeback sauce"; onion rings are served on a spool. Seafood is perfectly cooked, from the "nice piece of fish" to specials like grouper stuffed with crabmeat; dry-aged prime New York strip is served with a side of béarnaise sauce and crisp, shoestring fries. Desserts like key lime pie or chocolate chip cookies with milk are marvelous in their simplicity. The place is almost all patio, a beautiful hang on balmy nights, and there's often live music or dancing later on.
We're a hell of a long way from SoCal, but that doesn't mean you can't get a decent fish taco in South Florida. In fact, there are some damned fine examples if you know where to look. In anticipation ... More »
You don't open a restaurant at 207 Royal Poinciana Way, Palm Beach, without some appreciation of history, of the turning wheel of fortune. And I can hardly eat there myself without nostalgia. I used to live upstairs in a beautiful, sunny room... More »
Ahi tuna may be the most overserved dish in South Florida. It's often dull, chilled, and decorated with sesame seeds but otherwise tasteless. These ahi tacos are the much-needed exception. Imagine that a spicy tuna roll died, went to heaven, and discovered its true destiny -- inside a crunchy shell, with ponzu sauce, creamy avocado, cucumber, and rice. The combination of contrasting textures, spices, and sweetness is a victory for everyone involved. Nothing is too mushy, too fishy, or... More »
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