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This establishment, which bears a familial connection to defunct old-timer Say Eng Look, distinguishes itself from other Shanghai restaurants by reproducing all the standards with superior delicacy: juicy buns crowned with an extra wad of crabmeat, for instance, or cold spiced beef more aromatic than usual. The best entrees make unusual use of tofu: pork sauteed with strips of floppy bean-curd skin, and okra with tofu puffs; clouds of spongy curd that soak up the soothing sauce. The decor will remind you of an operating room.
Beef With Sour Cabbage Over Rice from Nice Green Bo Restaurant (66 Bayard Street, 212-625-2359)For $4.75, you get a piquant plate of preserved greens sautéed with tender, rich meat and featuri... More »
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