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The simply decorated 68-seat eatery, with maps of Central and South American countries adorning its white-tiled walls, starts diners with one of the best salsas in Homestead: a raw, chopped mix of tomatoes, onions, cilantro, and jalapeño peppers judiciously juiced with lime. The cooks here also make a riveting chile relleno, the giant poblano pepper pumped with lots of melted cheese, battered with wispily whipped egg whites, and deep-fried to a golden brown. Barbecue enchilada is another house specialty, the shredded chicken interior dabbed with a sweetly nuanced chili sauce, the tortilla topped with oozing cheese. We could go on about what NicaMex does well -- burritos, tostadas, shrimp cooked with red pepper and garlic, pork chops smothered with onions, an incendiary oxtail stew -- but let's just say this humble spot will surely satisfy any Mexican culinary hankerings you might have.
One of the things I like about Mexico is that the Eiffel Tower isn't there. Nor is the Colosseum, Big Ben, or any other "must-see" attraction that might distract from a more immediate bonding with the country's present-day culture by which, of... More »
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