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Nha Toi's chef, Fred Hua, is a California transplant who understands and respects traditional Vietnamese cooking but is notably adventurous and versatile in the kitchen. His Vietnamese joint on Havemeyer Street in Williamsburg initially made waves with his inspired banh mi creations, but now Nha Toi focuses on pho, bun, and rice dishes. The pho broth steams with an elegant fragrance, and his beef and pork cuts are of a much finer quality than most casual Vietnamese spots. So compact it's cool, Hua's restaurant is intimately tiny (the name translates to "my house") and he will most likely be the one handing you your order. He'll also be the one taking your order, and the charismatic, no-nonsense chef likes it best when customers step up to the ordering nook with their minds made up. The menu on the wall explains everything, and during the warmer months, the half-inside, half-outside window/counter makes for the quintessential, chill sidewalk cafe vibe. --Alex Spoto
In my favorite Sunset Park, Brooklyn, banh mi shop, the women behind the counter are efficient, superlative sandwich makers who speak heavily accented English and preside over a spotless but Spartan seating arrangement. The banh mi are... More »
Banh mi spread like a particularly fatty strain of pig flu this year--and while we may weary of hearing about these Vietnamese sandwiches, we'll never tire of eating them. While first-generation banh mi makers preside over agreeably spartan Chinatown joints in Manhattan and Sunset Park--the best is Ba Xuyen on Eighth Avenue in Brooklyn--second-generation sandwich moguls have spread across the city, and they are as likely to take their inspiration from a sloppy joe as from a... More »
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