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Asam laksa, the sour noodle soup in fish broth that's practically the Malaysian national dish, makes a respectable showing here. But in many cases, appetizers here are better than mains. We especially like the ikan bilis--a tumble of tiny, toothsome anchovies and red onion, sautéed in pungent belachan (fermented shrimp paste). Achat, the sweet-tart Malaysian salad, is crunchy and refreshing, with cabbage and pineapple in a peanutty dressing. Hainanese chicken and rice is serviceable, as is char kway teow, fried flat noodles with shrimp, pork and egg.
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