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Though Staten Island rarely receives plaudits for its restaurants, the plucky island leads the way in Sri Lankan cooking, thanks to a thriving immigrant community that demands great food. Catering to the culinary needs of Buddhists, Muslims, and Hindus, New Asha stirs up "black curries" made with complex toasted spice mixtures, proffered with wonderful homemade breads such as bowl-shaped hoppers (a/k/a appam) and potato-stuffed thosai.
Leading the pack of Ceylonese restaurants in the southernmost borough is New Asha Cafe, where one of our favorites is mutton kotthu roti, a cook-up of torn flatbread, spices, eggs, curry leaves, and geriatric sheep meat. More »
TOTONNO PIZZERIA NAPOLITANO 1524 Neptune Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-372-8606. This Coney Islander is the best pizza parlor in town, perhaps in the world, a place whose uncompromising crust is matched only by the excellence of its... More »
The bread's the thing at working-class Sri Lankan joints like Staten Island's New Asha Café. Mottled brown on top, gloriously gummy underneath, rectangular rotis stand atop the counter folded and stacked like diapers ($1). Next to them totter... More »
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