Description
Square bowls? Square spoons? Square layout? A cubical log cabin constructed from girders of herbed feta and olive-oil-slicked watermelon? That's Neo Meze, a dimly lit new small-plates restaurant whose design is as rigorously gridded as any mid-period Mondrian, and whose neo-clubber clientele could be cast in a remake of A Night at the Roxbury. As is the custom at the moment, the dishes at Neo Meze are rarely content to reflect the virtues of one cuisine when three or four would do. And then there"s the Kobe kibbe. The short wine list, I am sorry to say, is as square as the lounge music.
