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Naoe is an omakase oasis helmed by Kevin Cory, whose business card reads, "executive chef, general manager & dishwasher." Wendy Maharlika, the other half of this two-person operation, hosts, waits tables, and does everything else in a friendly and incredibly efficient manner. So far, so distinctive. Sakes from the chef's family in Japan are also unique to Naoe, as is the idea of a frozen sake. Try it - you'll like it. But the reason everyone in town is talking up this charmer can be found within the four-compartment bento box, which with a bowl of soup constitutes dinner. It's chef's choice, and his choices are pretty damn good, usually coupling a local catch with one or more flown overnight from Japan. This is cuisine you'd expect to find only in Tokyo, such as silver-skinned aji, or horse mackerel glazed with shoyu and plated with pickled wasabi leaves and flowers - freshly grated wasabi root mixed with horseradish on the side. Salmon wrapped in salted white seaweed; roasted freshwater eel; deep-fried shrimp tamago; rice with shiitake mushrooms and hints of eel - all are meticulously prepared and absolutely delicious. The price for a bento box and soup is only $26, perhaps the best American restaurant value since David Chang first debuted Momofuku in New York. If you're still hungry for more, Cory will prepare nigiri sushi; ask for the Scottish salmon belly. Reservations are necessary and accepted only through opentable.com. (Naoe recently moved from North Miami Beach to Miami's Brickell Key neighborhood.)
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Top 10 differences between Naoe and your favorite Japanese restaurant -- or, for that matter, any restaurant: 1. Chef/owner Kevin Cory worked in Japan at a traditional kaiseki restaurant, put in a startlingly impressive stint locally at Siam River, and has relatives that own sake and shoyu breweries in Oono and Ishikawa. 2. Live scallops, mirugai, aoyagi, anago, unagi, hamachi, oysters, baigai, tokobushi, and asari.3. Frozen Kaga No Yukizake sake.4. Menu consists of four-item chef's... More »
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