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Myung Dong Kal Guk Su in Anaheim is one of those food specialty restaurants with a laser-guided focus on making only a few things and making them well. Its experts focus on kalguksu, hand-cut noodles. The dish isn't just part of the name but is the first thing listed on a menu that has fewer than a dozen items, a majority of them noodles. The namesake noodles-as pale as Japanese udon and as wide as Italian linguine-have a smooth texture and ghostly translucence all their own, with a softly pliant bite and mouth-filling warmth.
The Temple of NoodlesFollow the crowds of Korean churchgoers to Myung Dong Kal Guk Su for heavenly helpings of hand-cut gloryTo paraphrase Isaac Asimov, when it comes to restaurants, variety is the last refuge of the incompetent. Think of the... More »
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