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Before Musso & Frank Grill became a martini-fueled Hollywood clubhouse, the place where Faulkner blew out his liver and generations of character actors learned to show up on Wednesday for the chicken potpie, the restaurant was practically a showcase for what was then considered California cuisine, a genteel marriage of the local produce, abundant local fisheries and masculinized lunchroom cooking: avocado cocktails smeared with sweet, pink dressing and frigid bowls of chilled consommé; great naked planks of boiled finnan haddie and dainty plates of crab Louie; kidneys Turbigo. This is what the cosmopolitan life was like, before cosmopolitans. Or if you happen to be of a certain bent, you could always try a long, drowsy lunch of Vicodin, jellied consommé and Welsh rarebit, followed by a desert-dry Gibson and a long nap - an experiment in what one friend calls gout-stool cuisine.
Step out of the tourist trap–laden, frat-boy noise of Hollywood Boulevard in 2013, and step into what is basically a time capsule — Los Angeles circa 1948. Musso & Frank is famous as the hangout of F. Scott Fitzgerald, Raymond Chandler and... More »
If you're reading this, then the world hasn't ended. Yet, anyway. And so, even though NASA confidently released a helpful, if pre-emptive, video entitled, "Why the World Didn't End Yesterday," it sti... More »
Peter Moruzzi is on a crusade to save fine dining. An admirer of classic, historic restaurants since his youth, Moruzzi, an L.A.-based writer, started to become alarmed in recent years over the ever m... More »
"Go to these places now. Don't wait. This may be your last chance to immerse yourself in a vanishing world." So says Peter Moruzzi, author of the just-published book Classic Dining: Discovering Americ... More »
Like silent films, old-school in the martini realm does not mean boring. Nor is there much to be said of the dry martini at Musso & Frank Grill that hasn't been said already. Yes, they know how to make a classic Old Hollywood sipper -- even after longtime barman Manny Felix retired after 40 years of infamous red-jacket stirring. And a martini here is best when "taken" as part of the entire steak-and–jellied consommé experience. Because with a drink as (one can hope) simple... More »
Musso & Frank Grill, although it is perhaps most famous for serving steaks and impeccable martinis to character actors, is a rare conservatory of early-20th-century American cooking, and if the EPA cared as much about threatened dishes as it does about endangered species, it would protect the kitchen with the same vigor it protects wetlands. Once the finnan haddie, kidneys turbigo, avocado cocktail and diplomat pudding leave the menu here, they probably are gone for good. Not least among... More »
Musso & Frank is a piece of Hollywood history. Grab a serious cocktail from Manny at the bar (he's been there for over 30 years!) and then peruse the lengthy menu of traditional (somewhat pricey) American comfort food served in plentiful portions. It's the kind of place where you and your parents will be equally comfortable and have a great time. Love the sole and the steaks. They have valet parking in the lot in the back.
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