All the Cuban classics at Moros Cuban Restaurant—ropa vieja, rabo encendido, lechón, flaky empanadas, jolting cortaditos—are similarly great, similarly cheap. Consider a quarter-chicken order: skin as crispy-golden as a wonton, meat tender and moist with a bitter orange-based mojo reduced almost to a marmalade, sticky and bittersweet. Comes with rice and plantains. Total price? Six pinche bucks. When the most expensive thing here, a magnificent paella as large as a basketball hoop, costs only $16, Moros is not only a great restaurant but a miracle as worthy of a pilgrimage as Lourdes.
In the world of searing condiments, few are as caustic as a properly made mojo de ajo—olive oil spiked with garlic, the soy sauce of Cuba. Too often, though, its non-coño presentation renders mojo to something approximating watery Ranch... More »
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