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Just a few blocks south of Journal Square, Morgan is an Egyptian seafood restaurant in the style of the ancient port of Alexandria, home to a flock of literary figures that includes Constantin Cavafy, Lawrence Durrell, E.M. Forster, and Naguib Mahfouz. And while there might not be much literary merit in fish, the porgy (grilled) and whiting (fried) are among the metropolitan area's best (and cheapest). The french fries are forgettable, but don't miss the baba ghanoush or the pickled eggplant appetizer, which comes in thick slices drenched in garlic-laced vinegar.
It used to be that "Go to the Greeks" was the best advice for someone seeking the freshest, unfussiest seafood, and we can remember many splendid Astorian meals of grilled whole fish with a just a squeeze of lemon, a handful of fries, and a feta-planked salad. But let us turn now to the Egyptians of Alexandria, who have an even sparer fish cuisine, based on grilled whole fish and fried fillets, served elegantly with a sauce of herbed tahini. Morgan Seafood (named after the pirate Henry... More »
Kennedy Boulevard zigzags south of Journal Square through a zone of elegant brick apartment buildings, wood-frame houses with rambling porches, a Jesuit college, and Morgan Seafood Restaurant. In spite of its vaguely Brit moniker, Morgan is an... More »
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