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There are a half-dozen Asian-noodle palaces in the East Village, but this one manages to do it with a twist. The focus is on ramen;the Japanese adaptation of Chinese lo mein;but with Korean flourishes. Thus you can get a fiery bowl of radish kimchi or a quintet of meat-stuffed dumplings as an appetizer. The ramen themselves are available in only a handful of permutations, foremost of which is "Momofuku ramen," featuring a dense, pork-based broth, an egg that partially poaches as you watch, and wonderful hunks of fatty, griddle-sauteed pig.
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This clogged category includes so many different styles--yet, all falling within the narrow compass of wheat noodles in broth--that we nearly despair of choosing a best one. Contenders include Ippudo and Ramen Setagaya in the East Village, Tabata at the ass end of the Port Authority, and Chuko in Prospect Heights. But, as one might do in contemplating a flock of old paramours, we're driven to return to our first ramen love, Momofuku Noodle Bar. It was here that David Chang cut his eyeteeth as... More »
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