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There are sushi bars aplenty for Seattlites in search of sustainable fish treated with delicacy and care, but Capitol Hill's Momiji may be the top destination for raw fish fans who like to drape their tuna—and other underwater predators at which a Seafood Watch devotee might look askance—with mayonnaise and avocado. Rolls here are enlarged with as many as a dozen ingredients from the fusion canon, but the decor doesn't hint at the kitchen's exuberance. The gorgeous wood-paneled dining room at Momiji is a study in serenity.
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