Description
The newest chapter in local Oaxacan cooking is being written at Moles La Tía, a kind of cenaduria in the Eastside district of Maravilla just past the 710, an intimately lit room with bright paint on the wall, and moody oils of grafitti-spattered Los Angeles River crossings. The flautas are nearly the size of actual flutes. The lamb barbacoa on weekends is as meltingly delicate as the stuff produced by the Guerrero-born specialists, and the thick, rustic corn tortillas her kitchen makes to order are better than some of the entrees at Michelin-starred restaurants.
