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The prodigious culinary accomplishments of African Americans in the Southern United States-sometimes known as soul food-are an eroding presence on the city's culinary scene, and the remaining examples should be cherished and supported. Mitchell's offers the standards: knock-out fried chicken with more black pepper than flour in the supremely crisp crust, mac and cheese with little squiggles of cheddar, collards laced with smoked turkey wing, and pork ribs slathered with barbecue sauce and oven-roasted. Grab one of the booths in the sunny front room, and try the fresh-veggie succotash if it's available.
On the Upper East Side, where can you drink a digestif out of this crazy glass, which seems bent on demonstrating a scientific principle? Four years ago Fork in the Road inaugurated the Our 10 Best ... More »
You're never without a fresh hot flatbread at Yemen Cafe. By my estimate, there are at least 15,000 restaurants in Brooklyn, and I love about 200 of them at any given time. So this list reflects eph... More »
We've always depended on noodles for a cheap, fast meal, and with the economy on the skids, we've never needed them as much as we need them now. Luckily, there are more types to choose from in New York than ever before. The recent flood of... More »
The cooking technique was brought to America by enslaved persons from coastal West Africa. Applied to chicken, it became the cornerstone of the cuisine called Southern cooking. When African Americans, principally from Georgia and the Carolinas,... More »
The prodigious culinary accomplishments of African Americans in the Southern United States--sometimes known as soul food--are an eroding presence on the city's culinary scene, and the remaining examples should be cherished and supported. Mitchell's offers the standards: knock-out fried chicken with more black pepper than flour in the supremely crisp crust, mac and cheese with little squiggles of cheddar, collards laced with smoked turkey wing, and pork ribs slathered with barbecue sauce a... More »
Robert Sietsema: There's no better fried bird in town than at Mitchell's Soul Food, a working-class holdout in upscaling Prospect Heights. The skin does the crisping work--it's only lightly dusted with flour, salt, and pepper--and the resulting product is juicy and crunchy at the same time, and the staff couldn't be nicer. The sides are great, too!Sarah DiGregorio: The Korean-style fried chicken at BonBon Chicken is cooked to order, so you may have to wait a few minutes, but yo... More »
Let's treat the horny old codger to a last meal of real fried chicken--not the crap he peddles in his innumerable franchises. I'm thinking about the perfect bird at Mitchell's Soul Food, which arrives moist and fleshy, the crisp skin unencumbered except by the merest dusting of flour. And the sides are fab too, including collards and cheesy mac-and-cheese. And, if we can get Harland there during the harvest season, he'll be tasting Mitchell's legendary succotash of fresh corn, okra, and... More »
Evidence of a matriarchal chicken-production system going back nearly a century that originated in the Carolinas, the wonderful fried chicken at Mitchell's Soul Food is made to order from scratch. Dark skinned, succulent, salty, it doesn't get any better than this. Go for a half-bird, or economize with the cryptic "chicken leg sandwich." Fresh garden vegetables make late summer and early fall--when a succotash of corn, okra, and tomatoes is sometimes available--the best times to... More »
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