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New Yorkers were thrilled when San Francisco transplant Mission Chinese Food appeared on the Lower East Side, slinging Oklahoma native Danny Bowien's take on Chinese food--which includes extensive mergings with other Asian cuisines. Nevertheless, some dishes read as Sichuan, including ma po tofu and chong qing chicken wings, which anesthetize the lips with ma la peppercorns. Cool the burn with a nifty version of chilled Japanese soba, which ramps up the traditional austere presentation with a very Southwestern (American, that is) green chile sauce. The chef is constantly tinkering with the menu, so who knows what you'll find when you drop by. The subterranean, pink-lit dining room is playful, but none too comfy. Go at lunch to avoid the crowds.
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The hands-down hit of the season this past summer was Mission Chinese, a San Francisco transplant helmed by a Korean-American who grew up in Oklahoma. As if that's not random enough, the menu wildly incorporates regional Chinese, Japanese, and American elements. But even more important than the fusion lessons we all enjoyed was the level of spiciness, which was totally balls-to-the-wall, and the semi-subterranean premises saw herds of hipsters who'd barely touched chiles before slurping down... More »
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