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Since being taken over by chef Joseph Maher, Mirabelle has transformed into one of the most inspiring New American restaurants in Dallas by blunting the French focus and employing a seafood-heavy canvas stroked with myriad eclectic influences from Mediterranean, to Latin, to tropical. The 40-seat restaurant also packs a 6,000-bottle wine cellar and bold art that pulses with color. Mirabelle is gripping, any way you splash it.
Chef Joseph Mahr's diver is a titillating tango of Latin and Southwestern, its veneer seared into a slight, consistent brittleness shrouding buttery succulence that veers into extracted sweetness on the finish. It's bedded down on a knoll of smooth polenta richened in chicken stock, cumin, cream and orange honey, a pool of lobster broth surrounding the island, the spinach floating in the pool like kelp beds. It's a surf and turf that's wonderful in its weirdness and makes the tongue dance.
Chef Joseph Mahr's diver is a titillating tango of Latin and Southwestern, its veneer seared into a slight, consistent brittleness shrouding buttery succulence that veers into extracted sweetness on the finish. It's bedded down on a knoll of smooth polenta richened in chicken stock, cumin, cream and orange honey, a pool of lobster broth surrounding the island, the spinach floating in the pool like kelp beds. It's a surf and turf that's wonderful in its weirdness and makes the tongue dance. More »
Mirabelle isn't exactly new. It was forged from the leftovers of Francois and Catherine Fotre's La Mirabelle. Though the name is a retread as is largely the interior, the food is not. Gone is La Mirabelle's French fare, and in its place is a New American hybrid (and what New American sortie isn't a mongrel?) cobbled together from an odd assortment of influences, from French to South American to Nordic. From his shunning the use of olive oil (he prefers the neutrality of grapeseed oil) to... More »
Chef Joseph Maher insists the color that drenches his North Dallas restaurant is not orange. "Actually, it's papaya," he corrects. "Papaya is my favorite fruit." Whatever the hue, the textured color soaks Mirabelle's walls, trim and, clumsily,... More »
La Mirabelle woos suitors Chef-owner Francois Fotre is trolling for bidders on his upscale North Dallas French bistro La Mirabelle. No, business isn't sluggish. Fotre insists he has built a devoted following. "My February is going to beat the... More »
You have to admit, the French are a pretty daffy bunch. Just when you thought socialism had gone the way of Pia Zadora feature films, the French gleefully gave it political mouth-to-mouth this June, filling the National Assembly and the prime... More »
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