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This new off-price Sumatran café has helped to rewrite the book on Indonesian food, beginning with the signature island dish of beef rendang. Though not made with water buffalo, the meat is still unspeakably rich and coconut-sodden. Satays, too, are a revelation. The helter-skelter pile of diminutive brochettes of lamb, beef, or chicken are flung on top of longton-cubes of rice starch that are laved with a thin, briny peanut sauce. The menu also makes much of jackfruit, a vegetable that cooks up something like canned tuna.
A couple of years ago, we experienced a wonderful invasion of new Indonesian places in Elmhurst. We're obsessed with the peanut-sauced Sumatran satays at Minangasli, which come on a bed of compressed rice starch called lontong.
Gotham has never harbored more than three or four Indonesian restaurants at any given time, making it one of our rarest cuisines. While most have been Javanese, a year ago Upi Jaya opened on a forlorn stretch of Woodside Avenue, slinging the... More »
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