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If there's any proof that we've come a long way from Chef Boyardee, it's the squid ink ravioli at Michael's on Naples in Long Beach-square pasta purses blacker than crude oil and as jarring a sight on a white plate as a Goth at Disneyland on a sunny day. Even better is the octopus carpaccio, which is sliced so thinly, it's almost invisible. Chef Boyardee, if you're reading, eat your heart out.
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