If the first duty of food is to be really delicious, and it is, then few restaurants succeed as well as this modest little Italian seafood house. There's no glitz, no glamour, just impeccably fresh seafood exactingly prepared and presented in all of its simple, fresh, honest glory. Frito misto is pure excellence -- fish, shrimp, and calamari given the lightest of coatings and crispest of fryings. Though the regular menu offers several worthy choices, the best and most interesting dishes are the daily specials, whether fresh heads-on shrimp with mango-pineapple salsa, two sizable swordfish steaks with pungent sun-dried tomato-olive-caper relish, or linguine with local lobster. Tiramisu might be ubiquitous, but here it is also really, really delicious.