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St. Paul chef Russell Klein (formerly of W.A. Frost) and his wife, Desta (who worked as a banquet captain at Frost), operate the classiest restaurant in downtown St. Paul. Their brasserie, in the charming Hamm Building in what was once the home of A Rebours, is named after an American wine made in the Bordeaux tradition, which seems an accurate reflection of the restaurant's cooking. Klein offers French classics--cassoulet, roast chicken, and steak frites--and a changing list of seasonally inspired American fare (past favorites have included chestnut-stuffed quail to venison loin served with a mulled-wine poached pear). The menu features a nice mix of gourmet fare (a two-bite mushroom ganache amusement, for example) and comfort food (chicken soup with matzo balls). Oh, and there's a cheese cart. If that's not a sign of class, what is? In warm weather, the restaurant operates a sidewalk crepe stand on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons.
It's the simple things in life that bring the greatest satisfaction. A sunny, warm day in spring, a pair of jeans worn in just right, and a steaming bowl of perfect soup. See also: 2012 Best ... More »
Fried food and football go hand in hand. There is nothing like settling in for the big game with a big basket of crispy chicken goodness. We scoured the Twin Cities and decimated the local wet nap sup... More »
Despite that brief, embarrassing episode with the so-called freedom fries, a certain slice of Americana requires a plate of French fries. From a diner burger to sopping up the white wine and butt... More »
Ah, mid-autumn. The time of year best marked by your level of annoyance with people who are still talking about how great it is that pumpkin lattes are back. But savvy foodies know there are so many m... More »
They came, they saw, they slurped, and often, they stood in line. Meritage hosted its second-annual Oysterfest with sold-out crowds. The restaurant was all hands on deck, with everyone taking a shucki... More »
Like Catherine Deneuve, Meritage has a French elegance that only seems to grow more alluring with time. The supple curve of the Tarbais beans in the cassoulet, the tender oysters brimming with their salty juices, the quivering egg yolks atop the benedict, the aged-to-perfection New York strip: Every lovely, delicious bite secures its status as a classic. The room is simple, lights perfectly dimmed for romance. While Meritage continues to wonderfully execute the classics, it also continues to... More »
Though a perennial favorite for best French restaurant, Meritage features dishes (such as moules frites, slow-cooked monkfish, escargot braised with oxtail, an amusement of tuna tartare "taco, " and the stunning selection of oysters on the half shell) that could make this restaurant a worthy contender in the Best Seafood category too. Chef Russell Klein honors the techniques and rich flavors of classic French cooking but still manages to keep things light. Similarly, the atmosphere created... More »
Do you think the French call a chaste kiss "le Americain smoochez?" Probably not. We'll continue to give them credit for the best kisses, fried potatoes, and takes on toast. French cuisine is also the sexiest. Begin with dishes generously basted in butter and a tray of briny, fresh oysters. Combine that with elegant surroundings, outstanding service, and a killer bar program, and you have the perfect recipe for a romantic date night. While the restaurant has expanded, Meritage continues to... More »
Reading Meritage's wine list is like taking a wine mini-course. It's got colored maps and history and appellations and definitions. Plus, it has really, really good wines. Wine director Nicolas Giraud is charged with finding wines designed in the Old World style that work with James Beard Award-nominated chef Russell Klein's food. Within that range, Giraud has crafted a world of wine, with bottles from Europe and the United States, and, in a charming grace note, has included a small shelf... More »
Salty, sweet, buttery, briny, chewy, gooey, soft--there are many ways to describe a good oyster, but few places in town to get one. That was until Meritage, downtown St. Paul's French brasserie, expanded to include a Parisian-style zinc bar complete with absinthe fountain. With seating for nearly 40, the new bar serves chic cocktails and oysters on the half shell to Ordway patrons and Wild fans alike. Follow in the footsteps of famous French devotee Ernest Hemingway and order the "Jack... More »
Suggest a French restaurant for dinner and you run the risk of being labeled as le snob. Unless that restaurant is the accessible Meritage, the perfect French brasserie for St. Paul: The waitstaff doesn't mind if, instead of mangling words like cassoulet or bouillabaisse, you simply point to the amusements or entrées you desire--no judgment, no sneer. And don't even think about being intimidated by the hefty wine list. It may be 17 pages long and have its own table of contents,... More »
What's the best way to start your meal at Meritage, the cute brasserie in downtown St. Paul that looks as if it belongs in the ninth arrondissement? The spicy tomato tingle of a bloody Mary shooter with a plump little oyster chaser? A doll-size blini topped with smoked salmon, crème fraîche, and capers? It's really hard to go wrong, so relax and make yourself comfortable. In fact, go right ahead and sop up the fragrant sauce from the bottom of that bowl of mussels, and... More »
This St. Paul newcomer hasn't yet received the accolades of some of our favorite French restaurants, such as Vincent and Cave Vin, though it's certainly deserving. Meritage offers all the Gallic standards, from steak frites to omelet du jour, and while the cassoulet and French onion soup might not have the looks of Carla Bruni, one bite proves they have all the intrigue. The restaurant's point of distinction is that chef Russell Klein (a French-trained New Yorker who learned from Jacques... More »
This St. Paul newcomer hasn't yet received the accolades of some of our favorite French restaurants, such as Vincent and Cave Vin, though it's certainly deserving. Meritage offers all the Gallic standards, from steak frites to omelet du jour, and while the cassoulet and French onion soup might not have the looks of Carla Bruni, one bite proves they have all the intrigue. The restaurant's point of distinction is that chef Russell Klein (a French-trained New Yorker who learned from Jacques Pepin and cut his teeth at Manhattan's grande dame of French cooking, La Caravelle) brings an American sensibility to classic Escoffier style. That means he honors tradition by rolling out the cheese cart, but also gets creative with striped bass and chestnut-stuffed quail. The dining room's design, though, is what really transports across the Atlantic. The historic Hamm Building feels like a Parisian brasserie, with its grand picture windows, white tile floor, and French pop music on the stereo.
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