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Whether tucked between two bread slices or served alongside rondures of rice and macaroni salad, the beef at Matiki Island Barbeque is among the most memorably delicious pieces of cow you'll ever chew: ruddy, soft, not burnt at all, a veritable luau on your palate. That beef and other entrées are the sole enticers here-no need for Polynesian bric-a-brac when the food is a slice of the island alongside two scoops of rice and one of macaroni salad.
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