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At West Seattle's Mashiko, classically trained Hajime Sato respects the rules and flouts them at the same time. He's one of the first American sushi chefs to source 100 percent sustainably; albacore stands in for bluefin, black cod liver for ankimo, barbecued catfish for unagi. At the bar, you can consume a parade of nigiri the likes of which you've not tasted, but Sato hasn't given up his kitsch rolls named for reality shows and blockbuster movies; the Ultraman roll is like having spicy tuna and cucumber with a side of onion rings.
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