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D'Amico's Mexican restaurant Masa opened to the kind of reviews that kept using words like upscale and high design; words that made most people assume: expensive. Not so! Masa is really just an everyday Mexican restaurant, albeit one in a nicely polished room with some splashy cocktails. At lunch you can get $2 tacos that look just like the little round ones they serve in the most authentic mercados, except here they come on white china and the al pastor one contains chunks of fresh-grilled pineapple. At dinner, expect to find basic Mexican food done with fresh, premium ingredients: The sea bass ceviche is so bright and crisp it tastes moments old; the huaraches are exactly what they should be--cornmeal comforts offset with a bit of spice. The cocktails are the most surprising part of Masa; their delicious Margaritas contain various top-shelf silver tequilas. Some contain a liqueur made with honey from the xtabentun flower, which, again, sounds so exotic that it should be unaffordable. Not so! Have another beside hot churros with chocolate dipping sauce, and discuss amongst yourselves whether Masa feels more like a museum cafeteria, or the drinks area near an upscale resort's pool, or the fresh, everyday Mexican restaurant downtown direly needed.
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After nine years of reviewing restaurants nigh weekly, I took a long holiday this past winter, and, for nearly two months, dined in. During this time I received news about restaurants the way most people do: by the vague cultural osmosis that... More »
Masa 1070 Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis 612.338.6272 www.masa-restaurant.com After nine years of reviewing restaurants nigh weekly, I took a long holiday this past winter, and, for nearly two months, dined in. During this time I received news... More »
Still mourning the loss of Pineda Tacos #2, the no-frills pit stop in the old Hi-Lake Pizza Hut? Here's what you do: Head over to Masa and start to console yourself with one of the six top-shelf margaritas. Once the alcohol starts to take effect, notice how the light streams in through the windows and bounces all over the colorful tile, making everything—you included—look a little better. Then take a seat in the dining room, and by the time the salsa is brought to your table in a classy ceramic ramekin, you'll never miss having to procure your own from a sneeze-guard-covered salad bar. Masa's tacos carnitas and skirt steak torta are just as tasty as the ones on Lake Street, except here you'll eat 'em with a knife and fork. Or you can expand your vision of Mexican cuisine by ordering the down-home pozole verde (a spicy stew of chicken, pork, and hominy) or the grilled mahi-mahi fillet with achiote marinade that's worthy of a special occasion.
One of the best happy hours for small plates. Excellent food. GT
Still mourning the loss of Pineda Tacos #2, the no-frills pit stop in the old Hi-Lake Pizza Hut? Here's what you do: Head over to Masa and start to console yourself with one of the six top-shelf margaritas. Once the alcohol starts to take effect, notice how the light streams in through the windows and bounces all over the colorful tile, making everything--you included--look a little better. Then take a seat in the dining room, and by the time the salsa is brought to your table in a... More »
What if your corner taqueria (and in the Twin Cities in 2006, surely every corner, even in Shakopee and Orono, now has one) had not just flavor, but high style? What if each plate were composed to look as if it were the many-colored, multi-textured creation of an upscale chef? What if the tomatillo salsa, a Mexican standard for generations, m'ijo, were a little sweeter and a little more vividly green? What if, when it was used to nap a plate of chjilaquiles-sauce-smothered fried tortilla... More »
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