Description
This Hell's Kitchen bistro has a dangerous name, evoking a romantic and tumultuous port associated with splendid seafood and international drug dealing. The pan-Mediterranean menu includes North African, Turkish, and Middle Eastern elements, in addition to the predictable Provençale ones. Mezze are reinterpreted as little tasting platters, one including hanger steak merguez planted in vegetable puree, a puck of foie gras torchon, and miniature fingers of Fatima. Inevitably, there's a bouillabaisse, and this formidable version, despite being too salty on a recent occasion, is pleasingly rife with baby vegetables and diverse tidbits of seafood.
