Description
Marouch has been a Hollywood Lebanese-Armenian mainstay for so long that it is sometimes possible to forget just how good it can be, how succulent the grilled quail, how zataar-fragrant the toasted-bread salad fattoush, how reliable the kebabs, which sing with spice and juice and char. I can't count the times I've crushed out on some Middle Eastern dish I'd tasted in Glendale or Michigan only to find out that Marouch chef Sossi Brady had it on her menu all the time, whether fried fish with tahini, the pungent aged-cheese salad shanklish, the walnut-pomegranate dip muhammara, or the Lebanese melted-cheese dessert knafeh. If you wanted to imagine you were in Beirut, you could stop by this place a few times a day - midmornings for a piece of baklava and a thimbleful of Middle Eastern coffee, lunch for a plate of makanek sausages and a bottle of Lebanese beer, late afternoons for the falafel, house-made from scratch, and a bowl of dense lentil soup, and dinner for one of the homestyle daily specials. Year after year, Marouch becomes nothing but better.
