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Several years back, Market House Meats, which has supplied the city's Irish with corned beef for five decades, turned its showroom into a eat-in deli. The decor consists of a windowside counter, some stools, and the smell of smoked meat, but really, what else do you need? The deli's fat, meat-packed sandwiches come with potato salad, some pickles, and a tiny cookie. The pastrami is lighter on the spices and the cure than East Coast versions, but it's succulent nonetheless, and the corned beef is proper: not too salty, not too nitrate-pink, beautifully tender. Try it in a Reuben with sauerkraut and marbled rye.
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