This little palace serves caldo de caguama (turtle soup) but also represents its own endangered genus-the restaurant whose métier is stunning Sinaloan-type Mexican food with a side of stereotypes-blistering aguachile with wooden parrots, nuclear ceviche served under drooping nets, and deer steaks that are almost as tender as each waitress' top is low.
Acid Trip While Edwin obsesses over barbecue, let’s talk ceviche: the Latin American seafood standard that involves chilled fish or crustaceans marinated in lime juice to varying degrees of sourness and spiciness—the best culinary remedy for the... More »
I should've written this column in the summer, when jolting doses of sour meals counter the oppressive heat. But puckering dishes comfort fall palates too: a plate like ceviche or a lemon tart will liven you from the autumn chill that won't leave... More »
Photo by Tenaya HillsThere are at least three kinds of culinary adventures: eating food that's bad—terrifyingly, esophageally wounding (in this paper's very first issue, my predecessor Tom Vasich was legitimately offended by the poor taste of... More »
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