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Named after the cattle-raising southwestern region of Tuscany, Maremma specializes in Tuscan cowboy cooking. The fried chicken is lemon scented, the papardelle with wild boar sauce features a touch of chocolate, and many of the dishes have wacky names;pork ribs sided with grits, for example, is dubbed "earn your spurs." Sometimes the wild ideas misfire like a cheap handgun. "I know why you like this place," a friend observed, "the menu is a combination of Italian food and greasy deep-fried stuff." She was right.
Tuscan and cowboy are two adjectives that may have never conjoined in your mind before, but to chef Cesare Casella, they are perpetually yoked. His restaurant Maremma is named after the maritime area of Tuscany where cattle are ranched, and he playfully takes the cooking of the region and fuses it with cowboy standards from our own country, resulting in such delights as "earn your spurs" (barbecued ribs), chuckwagon seafood stew, Rocky Mountain oysters (veal testicles, now, sadly, gone from... More »
In day eight of The Decameron, Giovanni Boccaccio describes a town called Bengodi ("enjoyment"). Perched beside a mountain of grated Parmesan, the town is a foodie paradise, where white wine sparkles in the streams and grapevines are tied up with... More »
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