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Hand-pulled noodles are immeasurably better than the machine-made kind: stretchy yet supple, irregularly shaped, veritable magnets for sauce. For some reason, the vast majority of L.A. chefs skilled in noodle pulling seem to own Chinese restaurants aimed at a Korean clientele, and perhaps the best of these is Mandarin House, right in the heart of Koreatown. The kung pao shrimp may be pedestrian, but the chachiang mein, in a dense, black sauce of fermented beans and pork, is out of this world.
Jajangmyun: black bean flavor at the Korean-Chinese border Dear Mr. Gold: In spite of this heat, I've got a hankering for some jajangmyun. Any suggestions? —Megan Akemi Cadena, via Facebook Dear Ms. Cadena: Is there ever a wrong time for... More »
Photos by Raul Vegaand Anthony Allen Twenty-odd years ago, I lived in a neighborhood that was then called Wilshire Center, in a large apartment, probably grand in its day, with Palladian windows, an oddly placed stairwell, and carpet that hadn’t... More »
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